Dogs with hip dysplasia generally present to their veterinarian in one of two ways.   The first is a young dog usually between 6 and 18 months of age who presents to their veterinarian for pain and discomfort involving their hips.  These dogs have not yet developed arthritis.  The second is an older dog who has hip dysplasia as a young dog, but becomes painful later in life due to the developing arthritis.  Treatment includes surgical and medical options for both scenarios.  Surgical options for young dogs, such as triple pelvic osteotomy and juvenile pubic symphysiodesis, involve changing the alignment of the pelvis to produce a better ball and socket joint.  For older dogs surgical intervention consists of either a total hip replacement or a procedure called a FHO (Femoral Head/Neck Osteotomy), where the ball portion of the hip is removed so the dog develops a false joint, thus minimizing pain.  All of these surgical options are best performed by a veterinary surgical specialist.

Medical management is appropriate for either young or old dogs when surgery isn’t an option.  Medical management consists of weight reduction where necessary, non-steriodal anti-inflammatory medication (Rimadyl/Deramaxx), cartilage protecting agents (glucosamine/Adequan), acupuncture and/or cold laser therapy.

If your dog has been diagnosed with hip dysplasia, your veterinarian will speak with you about the pros and cons of each procedure.  Then you can make an informed decision about which procedure is best for you and your pet.

All of his calculus was removed with ultrasonic scaling and his teeth were polished. I also took full mouth radiographs to evaluate the health of his teeth under the gum line. I’m so glad I did! I knew that Walter had one feline oral resorptive lesion, but, to my surprise, I found a second lesion on a back tooth that could only be seen on the x-rays. Because of the severity of both of these lesions, Walter had to have both teeth extracted. I know that these teeth had to be painful given that the pulp cavity and nerve endings were exposed. But, just like a lot of our kitty patients out there, he acted fine and kept eating his food with no problem!

Just like with us, dental health in cats is a very important part of their overall health plan. Overtime, bacteria and other debris accumulate on the teeth, which is called plaque. This plaque eventually changes to a hard substance called calculus (tarter), which is what we start to see on the surface of the teeth.  This calculus can cause painful gingivitis and also encourages the formation of additional plaque. If the calculus and gingivitis are not addressed, periodontal disease will result, which causes pain, tooth loss and severe infection.  As dental disease progresses, the gums recede, which allows bacteria to travel into the blood stream. Once bacteria are in the blood stream, it can travel to multiple organs throughout the body and cause other major diseases.

To address the accumulation of plaque and calculus, we recommend having a dental procedure performed. With a dental procedure, our patients are anesthetized and their mouth is fully examined for signs of disease. We then take x-rays of all the teeth to make sure the tooth roots look healthy. In some cases, such as Walter’s, we find evidence of disease on x-rays that we were unable to see during the physical exam. We then use a combination of ultrasonic scaling and hand scaling to remove the calculus on the teeth. Following scaling, the teeth are polished to smooth the surface.

It is also important to try and prevent this calculus from forming in the first place. The best way to try and prevent this accumulation is to brush the teeth regularly (see Cornell video on how to brush your cat’s teeth). However, many cats do not appreciate this and it becomes a real hassle. But, don’t despair…we have other options! One great alternative for cats is a dental gel, such as Maxi Guard, which the AWC is now carrying. This gel is applied to the teeth with your fingers…and is often tolerated much better by our feline patients than a tooth brush. In addition to the gel, there are also dental diets and treats available that can help maintain dental health.

With prevention, we hopefully will delay the start of dental disease. However, it is also important to watch your cat closely for any signs of oral discomfort.  Signs that they may have oral disease include bad breath, changes in eating habits, pawing at the mouth, excessive drooling, and loss of appetite.  But, cats are really good at hiding discomfort and we may miss finding painful lesions with an oral exam, which is what happened with Walter. Thus, it is essential to have your cat’s teeth cleaned annually as part of their preventative health plan.

Together as a team we can hopefully keep your kitty’s smile looking great!

Roundworms and hookworms are worms that live in the small intestine. Roundworms live by taking away nutrients from the cat. As a result, infected cats can progressively lose weight as these worms essentially cause them to starve. Hookworms attach to the intestinal lining (mucosa) and live by sucking the blood from the cat. Depending on the number of worms in the cat, infected cats can become very sick due to anemia (lack of red blood cells). Both types of worms can cause diarrhea as well.

Both round and hookworms can be passed on to humans, particularly children. Children become infected when they ingest the infective eggs, which are passed in the feces. Infection can occur if they are in contact with the feces directly or even the soil where the feces was. Once the egg is ingested, larvae hatch from the egg and then migrate throughout the body. In some cases, the immature larvae can migrate to the eye, which is called ocular larval migrans, and can result in blindness.  Hookworms can also be passed to humans via skin penetration, creating very red, itchy, worm like lesions.

Another overlooked parasite in cats is the heartworm. Just as with dogs, the mosquito is the prime culprit that transmits the immature form of the worm to the cat.  The immature worms then mature to large adult worms.  Although they are called heartworms, these worms actually primarily reside in the lungs in cats. These worms cause a massive asthma-like inflammatory reaction in the lungs that often leads to death.

All cats, even those who are only indoors, are also at risk for becoming infested with fleas.  Once a cat is infested with fleas, they are often very difficult to treat as the home is also usually infested. Fleas also transmit diseases to cats.

Thankfully prevention of these diseases is much easier than treatment.

There are many different preventatives available with many different variations in the types of parasites they protect against.  At your appointment, your veterinarian will discuss the best worm and flea preventatives to use for your cat.

For more information visit the Companion Animal Parasite Council’s website http://www.capcvet.org/

Echo's new partner Tracy!

For all of you that followed this blog about Echo, a Can Do Canines puppy being trained to be an assistance dog, I have great news to report: Echo has been matched with her client and is about to graduate!  I thought you all would love to hear about her success story.

When I last wrote about Echo she was taking the next step in training.  She went back to the Can Do Canines Headquarters for final evaluation and final training.  She passed all of the tests the trainers at Can Do Canines gave her and showed great interest in the area of mobility assistance.  She was also tested in the field of hearing and diabetic work.  She was ready to go and waited for the perfect match.  While waiting, Echo spent some great times in one of Can Do Canines prison program and was totally loved by the handlers.  She was able to fine tune her skills and get a lot of great care.

This is where I love to tell you about the great work the trainers at Can Do Canines do.  Trainers do not just take a name of a client and give them the first dog ready to go.  The staff works very hard at knowing the distinct personalities of each dog and then continues by conducting thorough interviews of potential clients, searching for a compatible fit between dog and client.  Sometimes it is very simple and other times it takes more time and patience, but regardless it is amazing to watch.

Our trainers recently interviewed a lady in Rochester, MN, whom many of them considered could be a perfect match for Echo. They happened to be right, as Echo moved right in with Tracy and began her work as a mobility assist dog.  Tracy has cerebral palsy and walks only short distances.  When she goes out in public, Tracy uses a motorized wheelchair.  Now Echo walks right beside her chair wherever she goes.  Echo is there for Tracy to help pick up any items she needs.  Echo started bringing Tracy her slippers right away, as well as she was able to open the refrigerator to bring Tracy juice when needed.  Most importantly, Tracy has a tendency to fall and cannot get up on her own.  When this happens she often cannot get the phone to call for assistance.  Now Echo can bring her the phone so that she can feel safe and assured that she can call for help when needed.  This is why every day Echo was at my house I told her she was meant to be more than my pet.  She was meant for greatness.  She was meant to be a life changer.

Tracy is very active and gets out of the house a lot.  Echo goes with Tracy when she volunteers at Methodist Hospital.  Tracy works at the gift shop and both her and Echo delivers packages to rooms when needed.  She goes to the gym and out with friends and now she takes Echo along with.  Soon Echo will go to work with Tracy.  Tracy loves to be busy and that will fit Echo perfectly.  We never stayed home much either.  Echo is use to that lifestyle.  Perfect Match.

Perfect Match!

Echo and Tracy will graduate on April 20, 2013 at Can Do Canines at 1:00p.m.

You are ALL invited to come share in this amazing event.  PLEASE BE MY GUEST and share in my joy of Echo’s accomplishments.  It is not the end but the beginning of her life with Tracy.  If you have never come to a graduation at Can Do Canines you should come.  It is a day of celebration and great life stories.  Can Do Canines are changing lives one dog at a time.

Address:  Can Do Canines
9440 Science Center Drive
New Hope, MN  55428
763-331-3000

Do you know the number one reason puppies lose their homes and subsequently lose their lives? It is behavior problems, not infectious diseases, accidents or parasites. Unacceptable behaviors are the leading reason dogs under three years of age are relinquished to shelters where a high percentage will be destroyed. Experts in veterinary behavior around the world have studied the causes for behavior problems in young dogs, and they agree that the majority of the problem behaviors can be traced back to lack of appropriate socialization during the puppy’s sensitive period.

The Sensitive Period.  The sensitive period for your puppy is the first 3 months of life. During this time your puppy is the most open to accepting and embracing other animals, new people, new experiences, objects, sounds and handling.  Repeated, positive exposures will provide your puppy with the skills she needs to understand and interact successfully with her world. This is a brief, yet precious, period of time for your puppy. Socialization classes are an ideal opportunity to make the most of these few weeks.

On the other hand, improper or incomplete socialization can increase her risk of behavioral issues in the future including fear, avoidance, and aggression.  Frightening or painful experiences can produce life-long phobias at this age. After 16 weeks of age the puppy’s mind closes to novel experiences. Their brains are programmed to be very wary of unfamiliar individuals and experiences and the sensitive period closes.

The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) has issued a formal Position Statement on Puppy Socialization. Pointing out the critical role early social learning plays in a puppy’s success, the statement reads in part, “ For this reason, the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior believes that it should be the standard of care for puppies to receive such socialization before they are fully vaccinated.”

Of course vaccinations are critically important to your puppy’s health, but the notion that our puppies shouldn’t be exposed to each other or the world outside their home until the vaccination series is complete is outdated and indeed dangerous to your puppy’s psychological development. Most puppies can start participating in socialization classes at 7-8 weeks of age after receiving a minimum of one set of vaccinations.

Socialization and Habituation. Socialization can be described as the process whereby an animal learns how to recognize and interact with the species with which it cohabits. In the wild this is likely to be limited to the animal’s own species, but for the domestic dog it includes other species such as man and cats. By learning how to interact with these the socialized dog develops communication skills which enable it to recognize, amongst other things, whether or not it is being threatened and how to recognize and respond to the intentions of others.

The socialization process starts at birth. Gentle handling and cuddling a newborn helps them learn to accept the manipulation of their bodies and to associate human touch with a pleasant experience. During the next 12 weeks they should be exposed to people of all ages, sizes and shapes. They need to see people in hats, with facial hair, wearing different clothing, and using a cane. These experiences will help them identify and be comfortable with all the different visual manifestations of humans.

Well socialized puppies have ample opportunities to play with other dogs. Their world needs to include interactive toys, novel objects, car rides, and visits to other homes. Encourage them to explore each environment and build self confidence.  All of these experiences are healthy and necessary for the next phase of learning:  Habituation.

Habituation. Habituation can be described as the process whereby an animal becomes accustomed to non-threatening environmental stimuli and learns to ignore them.  As she explores her world your puppy is being bombarded with information. She needs to learn who is a friend, does it hurt, can I eat it, is it fun, is it no big deal and can be ignored. We have all met dogs that seemed to over react to very common, non-threatening situations. They may have reacted fearfully, become over-protective, aggressive or hyperactive.  All of these behaviors result when a dog is improperly or incompletely socialized. These animals never had the chance to habituate fully to their world.

Socialization classes provide an ideal format for raising confident, well adjusted dogs.  Classes must be conducted by persons who are qualified trainers and held in a clean and safe environment. Puppies should be encouraged to explore and engage at their own pace. Teachers and puppy owners must use only positive reinforcement with praise and an abundance of treats. Most of all, you and your puppy should be having FUN!

The Animal Wellness Center is very proud to offer high quality, safe, fun and affordable socialization classes. Puppies between 7 and 16 weeks of age, having received at least one set of vaccinations and a de-worming treatment are eligible. Ideally, enroll your puppy when she is 7-8 weeks of age and then continue to attend weekly until she is ready to move into Puppy Kindergarten. This approach will maximize her learning experience during her all-important sensitive period.

Our trouble comes in the fact that it takes so little (25 measly calories) to cause significant weight gain.  I checked some common treats, and found it’s ridiculously easy to feed 25 extra calories.  For example, a Petite size Greenie is 54 calories!  One Snausage in a Blanket is 26.  A small Milkbone is 20.

For another example, let’s take a 70 pound dog.  She would need about 940 calories per day to maintain her body weight.  Common treats for bigger dogs might be a Large size Greenie (145 calories) or a chip-style rawhide chew (65-85 calories).  If we add 100 calories per day to this girl’s intake, she will soon weigh 80 pounds!

It can be very difficult to say no to our dogs. Those big brown eyes just melt our convictions. However, keeping our dogs lean is the absolute best thing we can do for their long term health! Here are some suggestions for keeping calories under control:

1.    Use smaller treats.  For example, the mini size Milkbones are only 5 calories each. Most dogs chew them so fast they won’t notice the size difference.  Another great small treat is Charlee Bears—they are only 3 calories each.
2.    Substitute healthier items.  Many dogs like the crunch of baby carrots or raw green beans. You can keep a container in the fridge for easy access.
3.    Track the calories of treats you do give, and check carefully. For example, Greenies Lite sound like a great idea, but when you check the calories, they are only about 10 calories less. That’s not much.
4.    Substitute kibble for treats. For many dogs, the specialness of a treat is that it comes at non-meal times, from a special jar or location and with a verbal reward from us. If you keep all those factors the same, but use 2-3 pieces of kibble, many dogs are just as happy.
5.    Use toys that dispense treats or kibble slowly to keep dogs busy and mentally stimulated. Good ones are a Buster Cube or the Kong Wobbler.  We also have a few ‘puzzle toys’ here at the clinic that make dogs think hard!

Please contact me if you have questions about nutrition, calorie intake for your pet, or other questions about treats.

Cats are naturally nocturnal creatures. In nature, cats hunt at times when its main prey are active and vulnerable, which is typically at dawn and dusk. However, while this behavioral tendency is beneficial in nature, it is more problematic with domesticated cats in the home.

To help pacify the 4am meowing alarm clock, there are a few things that you can try at home. First of all, set aside time each night before bed to have a play session with your cat. Take advantage of some of the great interactive toys available (Da Bird is one of my cat’s favorites!) to mimic their instinctive hunting behavior. This can help alleviate boredom and also provide beneficial exercise. It is also important to make sure there is plenty of environmental enrichment (such as cat trees, food dispensing toys, etc.) in the home. Lack of stimulation can result in boredom and result in anxiety and even illness. Bored cats may also start to create their own entertainment…which means your blinds and shelves may look like great jungle gyms!

At night, you can try separating your cat into a different area of the house with no access to the bedroom. For example, my brother restricts access to their second floor where his bedroom is at night because his cat kept waking him up at the crack of dawn. However, avoid closing a cat into an isolated room as they can become pretty distressed if shut into a small area (this also includes putting them in a kennel). We made this mistake with our older cat when he was a young cat. To keep him from waking us up, we closed him in the spare bedroom at night…well, he proceeded to rip up a section of the carpet in just one night!

Finally, another way you can try and prevent the 4am wake up call is to utilize an automatic feeder. Some cats are fine with an automatic feeder. Other cats become obsessive with these feeders and make attempts to knock them over. Also, the feeders tend to dispense more than the amount it is set for, so be aware of this potential discrepancy.

Hopefully, by utilizing some of these tips you can get some shuteye and improve your relationship with your feline friend!

Here are a few simple tips that can help make the day comfortable and more enjoyable for your pet.

•“Bench” furry friends. Consider isolating your pet(s) in a room or “safe zone” of your house. Mark the area with signs so that wandering guests don’t accidentally open the door and let pets out.
•If you do put pets in another room, don’t forget to check on them periodically so that they know you’re still close by. Drop by with some treats, reward calm behavior, and leave them with safe toys or food puzzles for entertainment.
•If you can’t safely isolate your pet in your house or your apartment and you’re really worried, ask a pet-friendly neighbor if you can temporarily house your pet in a quiet room at their house, or even consider boarding your pet.
•If the weather is nice, an outdoor kennel run is a good option.
•If your pets are allowed to “play the field” and mingle, don’t allow your guests to give them food treats. Be aware that alcohol, chocolate, grapes, raisins, and some types of nuts are among the foods that can be toxic to pets, and many human treats will make pets sick if they eat too much.

Fins and Feathers

If you have any non-furry pets in your household, don’t forget to take steps to safeguard them as well. Depending on how rowdy your party is likely to get, it might be a good idea to tape the tops of any fish tanks closed. Keep birds from accidentally flying the coop by wiring cage doors shut.

Keep Pets on “The Home Team”

Constantly opening and closing doors to admit guests is a risk. A stressed pet could easily bolt through an open door. Make doubly sure your pet is wearing his or her collar and all applicable forms of ID during your Super Bowl party!